Hey all. I have now officially spent a week here, and I’m having some adjustment troubles, so to speak. Being in a new country is always a physiological shock, and I’ve been off sick for two days this week. It’s frustrating, yesterday I had to drop my plans to go to East Amman and then a concert in order to go home and sleep. I do feel a bit like this program is slowly crushing me. Inshallah I will adjust and shall soon be flitting about and gabbing away like normal.
I’ve been slowly getting to know Amman. Today we had a scavenger hunt which was kind of silly, but did get us out to different parts of the city. I am particularly enamoured of Paris Square, which marks the French part of Amman. The French Cultural Centre is there, as well as this fabulous little French bookshop/café/bar combination. I’m definitely going back there to work soon. Amman’s extremely hilly topography means you get these amazing cafes and restaurants that are full of greenery, but are totally hidden. You’ll go through a grubby door and find yourself in a leafy oasis, it’s really cool. We espied such a place through the slats of a fence, but because it was so early, it was closed. I also saw hookahs with hollowed-out fresh fruit holding the tobacco, rather than the usual ceramic pot.
We also visited the upscale part of Amman, which I think is called the Fourth Circle. It was a little surreal, because it seemed quite unlike the grubby, Arabic Amman I’ve seen so far. They had a Starbucks (!) a jazz/blues place called the Blue Fig, and all sorts of Westernized places – including a Houston Sports Bar. All the signs were in English, and all these scantily dressed Arab women were driving around in Mercedes. By which I mean they were wearing tank tops, which does actually seem quite shocking after a while in a conservative country. It was a nice area though, and I might be going back tonight.
Today, I also experienced Habibeh Sweets, which is the best Arab sweets place in Amman. I can believe it. Arab sweets are rather like the Greek baklava you guys know, with a variety of fillings and styles. When I was there I met my first Saudis, who were by far the most friendly people I’ve met here. They were an older couple and their two kids. It’s funny, when Arab women are nice they are nice, they act so happy to have met you. The mum was just beaming through our whole conversation and I kind of wanted to hug her, but that would have been awkward. Or maybe not, actually.
Anyway, in sum, being here is difficult but stimulating. Sort of dreading the next week of class! I imagine that with time it will all become less overwhelming and I’ll relax into it more. I’m also sorry for my failure to upload pictures, the internet here is s-l-o-w and it took fifteen minutes to upload that picture yesterday. Which, by the way, is of the biggest flag I’ve ever seen. It’s visible from all over the city, and because it’s so massive it looks like it’s rippling really slowly and not frantically snapping like a lot of flags do. It’s rather awe inspiring.
Saturday, June 25, 2011
Wednesday, June 22, 2011
Tuesday, June 21, 2011
Beginning Amman
So, I’m here! In a deranged city that looks like a giant pile of sugar cubes where there are trees in the middle of the narrow sidewalks and everyone gurgles at each other in this bizarre language I can’t understand. I actually really like Amman, much more than I had expected to. I’d heard so many bad things – Amman is a city with no soul, it’s ugly, it’s boring, it’s bland. But I’ve been rather charmed. Amman is built out of a pale stone not unlike Jerusalem stone, and is spread across seven hills. It seems like a good place to start, it’s easy to get around by cab and everyone is nice. I’m going to write another post about the city, because I think it deserves its own.
The whole Arabic language thing is both easier and harder than I expected. I’ve found that I can talk to the teachers and the speaking partners and the other students, but I’ve yet to succeed in a conversation with a real live Arab. To speak Arabic with me requires a tremendous amount of patience – you need to speak slowly and repeat words several times, with synonyms and mimes. This is a lot to ask of someone who isn’t paid to do so! The Jordanians I’ve talked to tend to laugh, tell me I need to practice more, and continue the conversation in English. This is actually less discouraging than it sounds, and I have faith that I’ll get better eventually. For those who are blissfully unaware of this language’s perversity, Arabic is tricky because you actually have to learn two languages. There’s Modern Standard Arabic, MSA, which is used in the media, literature and legal settings. It’s tricky and mathematical. Then there’s colloquial, which is generally much easier to speak, but can be an altogether different language depending on where you are. Jordanian colloquial is rather similar to MSA.
I really feel like I’m in a program program here, the number of staff here to look after us is surprising. We have three young Americans with the group, who are a few years older than us. They are sort of residential counsellors, and seem to organize the day to day running of things. Encouragingly, they’ve all learned to speak excellent Arabic and are full of interesting stories of their travels in the Middle East. Then there are about seven or eight Jordanian speaking partners, who chat to us in colloquial and take us out for language socialization activities like going to the mall. Then there are our formal Arabic teachers at the Qasid institute, who are lively and fantastic. The institute’s screening process is ridiculous, apparently 300 people applied for their last opening. We’re also ushered along by the directors of the American Center for Oriental Research, ACOR, where some of us live, as well as by the program’s head of academics.
Anyway, because the State Department is paying a ridiculous amount of money for us to be here and learn Arabic, we are on a mad hamster wheel of activities. During the week we leave for Qasid at 8am, where we have MSA class 8.30 to 12. After a short lunch break, we have twenty minute MSA sessions with our speaking partners, followed by a colloquial class 2-3pm. Then we’re bussed back to ACOR just in time for another hour’s colloquial class. Then we have Arabophone dinner and are finally free at 7pm – which is when we have to start our homework.
To my mind, this is too much. We’re meant to commit wholeheartedly to Arabic whilst were here, but the hours of class leave us no time to go out and explore and immerse ourselves without a safety net. The best experiences I’ve had so far have been when I’ve struck out with just a friend or two to wander through a new neighbourhood and chat with the people we meet. Because we have so much work, it’s easy to relax into the current of the program. You do have to fight to make it out independently, but I think that that’s how I’m really going to learn.
The whole Arabic language thing is both easier and harder than I expected. I’ve found that I can talk to the teachers and the speaking partners and the other students, but I’ve yet to succeed in a conversation with a real live Arab. To speak Arabic with me requires a tremendous amount of patience – you need to speak slowly and repeat words several times, with synonyms and mimes. This is a lot to ask of someone who isn’t paid to do so! The Jordanians I’ve talked to tend to laugh, tell me I need to practice more, and continue the conversation in English. This is actually less discouraging than it sounds, and I have faith that I’ll get better eventually. For those who are blissfully unaware of this language’s perversity, Arabic is tricky because you actually have to learn two languages. There’s Modern Standard Arabic, MSA, which is used in the media, literature and legal settings. It’s tricky and mathematical. Then there’s colloquial, which is generally much easier to speak, but can be an altogether different language depending on where you are. Jordanian colloquial is rather similar to MSA.
I really feel like I’m in a program program here, the number of staff here to look after us is surprising. We have three young Americans with the group, who are a few years older than us. They are sort of residential counsellors, and seem to organize the day to day running of things. Encouragingly, they’ve all learned to speak excellent Arabic and are full of interesting stories of their travels in the Middle East. Then there are about seven or eight Jordanian speaking partners, who chat to us in colloquial and take us out for language socialization activities like going to the mall. Then there are our formal Arabic teachers at the Qasid institute, who are lively and fantastic. The institute’s screening process is ridiculous, apparently 300 people applied for their last opening. We’re also ushered along by the directors of the American Center for Oriental Research, ACOR, where some of us live, as well as by the program’s head of academics.
Anyway, because the State Department is paying a ridiculous amount of money for us to be here and learn Arabic, we are on a mad hamster wheel of activities. During the week we leave for Qasid at 8am, where we have MSA class 8.30 to 12. After a short lunch break, we have twenty minute MSA sessions with our speaking partners, followed by a colloquial class 2-3pm. Then we’re bussed back to ACOR just in time for another hour’s colloquial class. Then we have Arabophone dinner and are finally free at 7pm – which is when we have to start our homework.
To my mind, this is too much. We’re meant to commit wholeheartedly to Arabic whilst were here, but the hours of class leave us no time to go out and explore and immerse ourselves without a safety net. The best experiences I’ve had so far have been when I’ve struck out with just a friend or two to wander through a new neighbourhood and chat with the people we meet. Because we have so much work, it’s easy to relax into the current of the program. You do have to fight to make it out independently, but I think that that’s how I’m really going to learn.
Thursday, June 16, 2011
Travelling mishaps I have known
Want to hear an epic bollocksing-up of travel? Read on! My half of the group (31 people) were bussed to Dulles airport, arriving at 5.30pm for an 11pm flight. My lovely Uncle Steve then picked me up from the airport, and I had a great dinner with my aunt and cousins at their house, just 15 minutes from the airport. During the meal, my phone rang.
As it turns out, there was some clerical error and so all 31 of us were booked on the 5pm flight to Amman, but were told our flight was at 11. So all 31 of us missed our flight! I shudder to think how much this cost the taxpayer – the flights were $2300, so that’s over $60,000 down the drain….. anyway, we were all put on standby for the later 11pm flight, because they didn’t have space. If we didn’t make it, we’d have to stay the night in an airport hotel and fly in the evening of the next day. I would probably have stayed with my family in DC, but that’s still a poor outcome.
Anyway, 15 minutes before the flight was due to board, they miraculously found room for all of us! When I called Uncle Steve to tell him, he said “This is the power of the United States Government,” or something equally impressive. Perhaps they assassinated 31 passengers to make room for us? Regardless, it was an ‘alhamdulilah’ moment – thanks be to God.
I’m just about to board my Paris-Amman flight, so peace out amigos and I’ll talk to you soon.
As it turns out, there was some clerical error and so all 31 of us were booked on the 5pm flight to Amman, but were told our flight was at 11. So all 31 of us missed our flight! I shudder to think how much this cost the taxpayer – the flights were $2300, so that’s over $60,000 down the drain….. anyway, we were all put on standby for the later 11pm flight, because they didn’t have space. If we didn’t make it, we’d have to stay the night in an airport hotel and fly in the evening of the next day. I would probably have stayed with my family in DC, but that’s still a poor outcome.
Anyway, 15 minutes before the flight was due to board, they miraculously found room for all of us! When I called Uncle Steve to tell him, he said “This is the power of the United States Government,” or something equally impressive. Perhaps they assassinated 31 passengers to make room for us? Regardless, it was an ‘alhamdulilah’ moment – thanks be to God.
I’m just about to board my Paris-Amman flight, so peace out amigos and I’ll talk to you soon.
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
First Impressions
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Hello my lovely friends, family and occasional stalkers. In this blog I’ll be documenting my two months in Jordan, studying Arabic on the Critical Language Scholarship, courtesy of the State Department. I’ve been in DC for the past two days for orientation. Excuse the silly blog name, I was a little short of ideas. The header is a picture I took of Petra last summer.
Anyway, so far, so good. To my surprise, I really like DC. We’re staying near Dupont Circle, and I’ve loved walking around and people-watching. There’s an interesting mix of people here from all over the world, and a disproportionate number of well-dressed good-looking young people. I spent my first evening here walking for miles with my roommate and just exploring. We found a great nail place that served white wine and champagne, a perfect combination to my mind ! I’ve also seen the WWII memorial, the giant obelisk, the White House and the Lincoln memorial. Is it weird that I envy Abe’s cheekbones? I’ve also discovered fireflies! They’re amazing! They’re like little rave bugs! Tons came out around the monuments and I freaked out and started running around, catching them all. I’ve never really seen them before and was surprised that everybody was so blasé about these mobile glowstick creatures.
Orientation took all day yesterday. We heard from the woman who runs the government exchange programs, who urged us to represent America favourably and engage in “local diplomacy.” We heard from people who have made their careers working in the Middle East with the Foreign Service. As it turns out, if I went for a government career I wouldn’t have to give up my UK citizenship, which makes the idea more appealing. We’ll see. There were also talks from a Jordanian embassy representative, from the former program director and CLS Amman alumni. All this happened from 9 to 4 in a Marriott conference room, in the basement, with no windows. A little claustrophobic. However, allow me to reassure you that I won’t be coming back as Jason Bourne. They do seem to be trying to recruit us, but in a good-natured rather than an aggressive way. I’m getting a greater sense of how much of an honour this award really is – the government is spending thousands of dollars on each of us, so we can learn Arabic. No pressure!
It’s been interesting to hear more about Amman from people who’ve lived there. I’m getting increasingly excited, it seems like it’ll be easy to meet’n’greet with the local yokels and actually, you know, learn Arabic. I’m really going to try and force myself to speak as much Arabic as possible, even if everybody laughs at me all the time. Which they probably will.
I’ve enjoyed meeting the other students as well. They come from a massively diverse range of institutions and disciplines, including biochemistry, nature conservation and art history. There are a decent number of grad students as well as undergrad. It’ll be fun to hear everybody’s different perspectives on Jordan, and I don’t think I’ll run out of people to chat to! Everybody seems interesting, and there are a lot of ‘characters.’ Funnily enough, there is something like 36 women and 20 men on the program. This might sound odd, but I’ve noticed here and at Brown that Arabic and the Middle East attract strong personalities, and also good-looking, adventurous and intelligent women. I’m not trying to awkwardly compliment myself here (honest) but that’s just what I’ve noticed in my peers!
Anyway, I just checked out of the hotel and have a few free hours so I’m going to trot off to the Smithsonian to mainline some cultcha. We’re being bussed to the airport at 4pm, although our flight isn’t until 10pm. Since Uncle Steve lives near Dulles Airport he’s going to come and pick me up so I can spend a few hours with him, Aunt Carla and my cousins. I’ll be in touch from Jordan!
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